Visiting the Longji Rice Terraces, also known as the Longsheng Rice Terraces, was one of the most memorable experiences of my trip through China. The mountains covered in endless steps of rice paddies look as if they had been drawn by hand, tracing the spine of a dragon. It’s no coincidence that in Chinese they are called “Longji” (龙脊), which literally means the dragon’s backbone.
What impressed me the most wasn’t only the views, but the feeling of being in a place where nature and human effort have worked together for centuries. These rice terraces started to be built more than 600 years ago, and local families are still cultivating rice here today, keeping their traditions alive.
Most travelers visit Longji as a day trip from Guilin. It’s a valid option if you’re short on time, but in my case I decided to do it differently: arriving from Fenghuang and spending the night right in the middle of the terraces. It was much harder to get there, but it completely changed my experience for the better. Not only could we enjoy the famous viewpoints without rushing, we also witnessed sunrise and sunset without the crowds that come with the tours.
In this guide, I’ll share everything I learned: how to get there (including the lesser-known route from Fenghuang), where to stay depending on the type of experience you’re after, the best viewpoints to visit, as well as practical tips to help you plan your trip to the Longsheng Rice Terraces.
❓Day Trip vs Overnight Stay in Longji
One of the biggest dilemmas when planning a visit to the Longji Rice Terraces is whether to do it as a day trip from Guilin or to spend the night in the rice fields. Both options are possible, but the experience changes completely depending on which one you choose.
Day Trip from Guilin or Yangshuo
Most travelers go for this option. From Guilin (or even Yangshuo) there are several agencies offering both private and group tours that include transport, the entrance fee to the scenic area, and visits to some of the most famous viewpoints. It’s the most convenient choice if you don’t have much time, since in just one day you can see the main highlights.
✅ Advantages of a day trip:
- You don’t need to worry about transport or where to stay.
- Perfect if your China itinerary is very tight.
- Usually includes a guide who takes you straight to the main viewpoints.
❌ Disadvantages:
- Time is very limited: you’ll only see one or two viewpoints and maybe a village.
- You’ll miss the magic of sunrise and sunset over the terraces.
- You’ll likely overlap with large tour groups at peak hours.
In short, if you only have one free day in the Guilin area and just want a quick glimpse, this option works. But if you can, I highly recommend doing it another way.
Overnight Stay in Longji: the Best Choice
In our case, we decided to stay in Tiantou, a small village located above Dazhai. Getting there was quite complicated, especially coming from Fenghuang, but the reward was immense: waking up surrounded by rice fields, watching the sunrise from the West Hill Music viewpoint, and exploring the trails without rushing or crowds.
✅ Advantages of staying overnight in Longji:
- You can enjoy sunrise and sunset, the most magical times of the day.
- More time to explore several viewpoints and go trekking between villages.
- The experience feels far more authentic: homemade dinners, contact with local families, and quiet landscapes.
- Access to less touristy areas such as Tiantou or hidden viewpoints.
❌ Disadvantages:
- The logistics are more complicated, especially if you’re arriving from Fenghuang.
- You’ll probably need to carry your backpack uphill on foot (totally worth it though!).
- Not the best option if your travel schedule is extremely tight.
🚌 How to Get to the Longji Rice Terraces
Llegar hasta Longji puede parecer un pequeño rompecabezas y requiere de una buena planificación, pero la aventura de llegar forma parte de la experiencia. A su vez, los arrozales de Longsheng se dividen en 3 zonas: Las terrazas Zhuang, las terrazas de Ping’An y las terrazas de Jingkeng.
Getting to the Longji Rice Terraces can feel like solving a little puzzle, and it definitely requires some planning. But honestly, the journey is part of the adventure. The terraces are divided into three main areas: the Zhuang Terraces, the Ping’an Terraces, and the Jingkeng (Dazhai) Terraces.
From Guilin or Yangshuo
If you want to visit the Jingkeng (Dazhai) area, the easiest option is to start from Guilin, where there are direct buses to the Dazhai parking lot. The ride takes about 2–3 hours depending on traffic.
If instead you want to visit Ping’an, you’ll need to transfer in Longsheng and catch a second local bus from there.
From Yangshuo, there are also connections, though they take longer (around 4 hours). You can either take a direct bus to Jingkeng or transfer in Guilin if your destination is Ping’an.
In both cases, the journey usually includes a stop at the ticket office, where you’ll need to pay the official entrance fee for the scenic area (80 RMB per person). From there, buses continue to the main parking lots.
Once inside, you can get around using local shuttle buses or by hiring a driver. Keep in mind that some villages, hotels, and viewpoints are not fully accessible by road, so be prepared to walk uphill with your backpack.
From Fenghuang (my personal experience)
This is where our route got a bit more adventurous. We were coming from Fenghuang and, instead of traveling all the way to Guilin just to backtrack the next day, we decided to try reaching Longji directly. It wasn’t easy — the trip required several connections — but it was absolutely doable. Here’s how it went:
- Bus from Fenghuang to Huaihua → There’s a bus leaving Fenghuang bus station at 11:00 am, and the ride takes about 1 hour. You don’t need to reach Huaihua’s central station; the driver will tell you where to get off (at the highway entrance).
- Bus from Huaihua towards Guilin → After waiting about an hour at that spot, we caught a bus headed to Guilin. The trip took roughly 3 hours, with a quick stop for a bathroom break. We got off at a highway intersection just past Longsheng — the closest drop-off point to Longji. The bus rejoined the highway afterward to continue toward Guilin.
- Local bus or DiDi → At the intersection, we had to wait for a local bus heading to the Longji entrance. If no buses showed up, the alternative was to call a DiDi (the Chinese version of Uber). The tricky part is that drivers aren’t always available in that area, so patience is key.
- Final stretch to the village → Once at the entrance, there’s still another leg of the journey: going up to the village where you’ll stay (most people choose Ping’an or Dazhai). You can do this by local bus or taxi, and sometimes you’ll still need to walk with your backpack to reach the hotel.
I admit it was a long trip, full of changes and waiting times. On top of that, we chose to stay in the most remote village, Tiantou, which required an uphill hike after the last ride. But when we finally arrived and saw the terraces glowing at sunset, I knew the effort had been more than worth it.
🏨 Where to Stay in Longji
Choosing the right village to stay in is key to making the most of your visit to the Longji Rice Terraces. Most travelers stay in one of the main villages, each offering a different vibe and level of comfort.
Staying in Ping’an
Ping’an is the most popular option among travelers. It’s very well prepared for tourism, with hotels in different price ranges, restaurants with English menus, and relatively easy access from the main entrance.
From here you can visit famous viewpoints such as Nine Dragons and Five Tigers. Ping’an is ideal if you only have one night and want convenience with plenty of services.
The downside? Being the most visited village, it can feel crowded, especially when large day-tour groups arrive from Guilin.
Staying in Dazhai
Dazhai (Jingkeng) is another main access point to the terraces. It has a more rural atmosphere than Ping’an, though guesthouses and small hotels are steadily increasing. From here, you can easily reach iconic viewpoints like Thousand Layered Terraces.
It’s a great choice if you’re looking for a balance between authenticity and accessibility. Plus, it has direct bus connections from Guilin, which makes logistics easier.
Staying in Tiantou (my personal choice)
Tiantou is a tiny village perched above Dazhai, right in the heart of the terraces. It wasn’t our first idea, but a photographer we met recommended it — and he was absolutely right. From Tiantou you have easy access to less-visited viewpoints, and the sunrise views are breathtaking.
We stayed in this beautiful guesthouse, and the owner even came down to meet us at the parking lot where our DiDi dropped us off — thankfully, because reaching the place on our own would have been almost impossible 😅.
💶 Price: around €30 per night.
Getting there requires some effort: from Dazhai’s parking lot you still need to hike uphill with your backpack. But once you’re there, the reward is worth every step. Tiantou is much quieter than the other villages, and the local life feels far more authentic. One of my favorite memories was crossing paths at 5 a.m. with Yao women on their way to the fields, their long hair tied up in traditional buns.
There are no shops or proper restaurants here, so you’ll usually eat dinner at your guesthouse. But if you’re after peaceful landscapes, photography opportunities, and a deeper connection with local life, Tiantou is the best bet.
🚕 How to Get Around: Ping’an, Dazhai, and Tiantou
One of the most common questions about Longji is how to move between the different villages and viewpoints. Luckily, there are several options:
By Road
Ping’an and Dazhai are connected by road, but there is no direct public bus between them. You’ll need to hire a driver, and the trip takes about 40 minutes.
To go up from the Dazhai parking lot to Tiantou, you’ll also need to arrange a ride with a driver or taxi, as there’s no public bus service.
On Foot: Trekking Routes
The most beautiful way to experience Longji is on foot, walking along the trails that connect the villages. These routes are well-marked and allow you to enjoy the terraces at your own pace.
- Trekking Ping’an – Dazhai: one of the most popular hikes. It takes about 5 hours, crossing rice fields, small villages, and scenic viewpoints along the way. It’s not too difficult, though there are ups and downs.
- Dazhai – Tiantou: a shorter hike, just 30–40 minutes uphill. Perfect if you’re staying in Tiantou.
- Ping’an – Tiantou: can be done as an extension of the Ping’an–Dazhai trek, adding up to 5–6 hours total.
The advantage of trekking is that you’ll come across viewpoints that don’t appear on official maps and pass through villages where very few tourists go.
🌾 What to See in the Longji Rice Terraces
The Longji Rice Terraces are not just a single viewpoint, but rather a collection of villages, trails, and scenic spots spread across the mountains. While most visitors focus on the most famous viewpoints, the real charm lies in exploring them slowly and soaking up the atmosphere.
In the Jingkeng (Dazhai) Area
West Hill Music – the Best Sunrise
If I had to choose one single moment from my time in Longji, it would be this one. The afternoon before, we had just arrived in Tiantou after a long and tiring journey, so we decided to start the next morning with something special: hiking up to West Hill Music viewpoint before sunrise.
The walk is short (about 20 minutes from our hotel), but since we left in complete darkness, we brought headlamps. Once we arrived, I immediately understood why so many people recommend it. They say West Hill Music offers the best views of all the terraces, and after visiting several viewpoints, I can confidently agree.
That morning the sky was cloudy (the joys of traveling during rainy season…), but even then, the scene was breathtaking. On a clear day, I can only imagine how spectacular it must be.
💡 Tip: Bring a flashlight or headlamp for the climb, and arrive at least 30 minutes before sunrise to grab the best spot for your tripod.
Thousand Layered Terraces
The name says it all: this viewpoint is famous for its endless rice terraces cascading down the hills like a thousand steps. It’s one of the signature images of Dazhai.
We reached it by car from Tiantou with our guide. Thanks to him, we didn’t just admire the view — we also learned how local families have farmed these fields for generations. He even flew his drone, which gave us an incredible aerial perspective.
Golden Buddha Peak
One of the easiest viewpoints to access is Golden Buddha Peak, reachable by cable car from the Dazhai parking lot. However, its accessibility also makes it the most crowded, especially with day-trippers.
We decided to skip it due to lack of time and because we preferred to focus on quieter spots, but if you only have a few hours, it’s a convenient option.
Dazhai Village and Surroundings
Don’t just rush from viewpoint to viewpoint — take some time to wander around Dazhai village. Traditional wooden houses, narrow alleys, and the daily rhythm of the Yao minority make it worth a stroll.
When we visited, many shops were closed, and our guide explained that tourism had dropped a lot after Covid. Still, we had the chance to see Yao women with their famously long hair tied up in buns. Be aware, though: most will ask for payment if you want to take photos. If you’re interested in a proper photo session with a local family, I can send you the number of our guide, who can help arrange it.
In the Ping’an Area
Nine Dragons and Five Tigers
This viewpoint gets its name from the way the terraces resemble nine dragons descending the mountain, guarded by five tiger-shaped hills.
It’s one of the most photogenic spots, perfect for experimenting with perspective. The downside is that it’s very popular, so expect crowds unless you visit early in the morning or late in the afternoon.
Seven Stars Around the Moon
This unique viewpoint is named after a central clearing (the “moon”) surrounded by seven rounded hills (the “stars”). The natural composition is stunning, especially during planting season when the flooded fields reflect the sky like mirrors.
It was one of the most surprising viewpoints for me, probably because I didn’t expect it to look so different from the others. Photos from here stand out thanks to the unusual landscape.
🌡️ Best Time to Visit the Longji Rice Terraces
One of the fascinating things about the Longji Rice Terraces is how dramatically the landscape changes with the seasons. Each time of year offers something different, so the “best” time really depends on what you want to experience.
Spring – Mirror-Like Reflections
From April to May, farmers start flooding the fields in preparation for planting. The water turns the terraces into giant mirrors that reflect the sky, especially at sunrise and sunset. By mid-June, fresh green shoots cover the slopes.
- ✅ Pros: incredibly photogenic landscapes thanks to the mirror effect of the water.
❌ Cons: the weather can be unpredictable, with fog and sudden rain showers.
Summer – Peak Growth
By late June through August, the rice is in full growth, painting the mountains an intense, vibrant green. This is when Longji looks most alive.
- ✅ Pros: lush green scenery and lots of activity in the fields.
❌ Cons: it’s hot, humid, and rainy. Be prepared with a rain jacket and umbrella.
Autumn – Golden Harvest Season
Between September and October, the terraces turn a glowing golden color as harvest approaches. Many photographers consider this the best season because of the stunning light and contrasts.
- ✅ Pros: golden landscapes, pleasant temperatures, and drier weather.
❌ Cons: more tourists, especially during China’s National Day holiday in early October.
Winter – Snow-Covered Terraces
From November to March, the terraces are empty, and the mountains are mostly brown. It’s the least scenic season — unless you’re lucky enough to see snow, which transforms the fields into a magical winter wonderland.
- ✅ Pros: very few tourists, peaceful atmosphere, unique snowy scenery.
❌ Cons: cold weather, limited color in the landscape, and some trails may be difficult.
📸 Photography Tips for Longji
The Longsheng Rice Terraces are a dream for photographers, but preparation is key if you want to bring home the best shots.
- CPL Filter (Circular Polarizer): essential for reducing reflections on the water and deepening the colors of the sky.
- Lightweight Tripod: a must for sunrise and sunset when you’ll need longer exposures.
- Wide-Angle Lens: a lens like the Samyang 12mm (or equivalent) is perfect for capturing the sweeping scale of the terraces.
- Versatile Zoom (18–55mm or similar): ideal for a mix of portraits and mid-range landscapes.
- Telephoto Lens: useful for photographing farmers at work in the fields, as they’re often far from the main trails.
💡 Pro tip: Use your wide-angle lens for the vast landscapes and switch to your telephoto for intimate glimpses of local life. This way, you’ll capture both the grandeur of Longji and the human stories that make it unique.
✨ Conclusion
If you’re planning a trip through China, the Longji Rice Terraces are one of those places that truly make a difference. It doesn’t matter if you’ve already admired the karst mountains of Guilin, the sandstone peaks of Zhangjiajie, or the bustling skylines of Chinese megacities — Longji offers a completely different experience. Here, life feels slower, more connected to nature, and deeply rooted in centuries-old traditions.
Although the terraces attract more visitors every year, many villages still preserve their authenticity. Hopefully, it will remain that way for a long time. Tourism always brings challenges, but so far Longji has managed to keep its fragile balance between accessibility and tradition.
Maybe that’s the real lesson of the rice terraces: that patience and respect are the keys to preserving what amazes us today, so that future generations can continue to marvel at it tomorrow.
If you decide to include Longsheng in your itinerary, I’m confident it will become one of the highlights of your journey through China — just as it did for me.
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